4-July-2006 * Nongte

We've been in Tong-gu (Tara's mom's home) for 3 days now, and are starting to settle in to the rhythm of life here. Life has changed in several ways since our last visit 7 years ago. For one, the Tong-gu house is new and it's much larger and more comfortable than before. It has a huge friendly kitchen/living room, with space for at least 30 people. Two large jin-goms line the southeast and southwest walls, while cheerful cabinets line the northeast and northwest walls. The walls and cabinets are red, orange, blue, purple, yellow, turquoise, silver, pink, and white. They are decorated with flowers, clouds, and geometric designs, while the edges are intricately carved in flowers and cut-out patterns.

The focal point for this room is a broad black iron stove, large enough to warm 12 large pots. It has a long central firebox, in which meter-long branches can be burnt. The stovepipe has eliminated the pall of smoke that used to fill the old kitchen. Also, since the windows are far from the outhouse (on the NE corner of the house) flies are infrequent visitors to the kitchen. Small stools surrounding the stove support the constant flow of family, relatives, and friends who hang out in this happy place.

Behind the stove are three large water canisters, replenished by hand from the stream behind the house. Above these is a string of dippers, all different sizes. A large pot occupying a central position on the stove is the source of warm water. The next cabinet behind the stove holds the various spices and cooking ingredients. The other cabinets store a variety of pots, pans, and miscellaneous items. One prominent cabinet holds the TV, which, along with the electric light bulbs in various rooms of the house, is powered by a micro-hydro generator behind the home. For 2-8 weeks in winter, snow and ice shut off the electricity, but in the warm season, they have enough to power their lights or their TV and satellite receiver. Amazingly, they can now watch satellite broadcasts from China and beyond in this rural hinterland. Maybe tonight, we'll conjure a remake of "The Cup," as we attempt to watch a semifinal match in the World Cup Tournament. The difference is that here, it seems nobody has even heard of the World Cup!

At this time of year, Khams is vibrantly green, and Kutse Valley is no exception. The fields in the valley floor are bright with growth, flashing forth in the various shades of growing barley, wheat, alfalfa, potatoes, turnips, and hay. The terraced fields of Nongte, swaying gracefully in the wind, are a truly lovely sight.

Now is the time to weed the barley fields. This is women's work, and everywhere, women are to be seen swimming through the swaying barley, crouching as they search for stray grass, oats, and other weeds growing midst their staple crops. They gather the grass and weeds into bundles and carry them, like walking grass heaps, to dry near the barns where hay is stored for winter fodder.

I find it amazing and wonderful that they hand-weed their fields. No herbicides, and nothing goes to waste. The weeds feed the animals. I had the opportunity to help Tsega (Tara's #4 sister) for a short while, thrilling in the peaceful sounds of the Tsang Chu's rushing water and the wind rustled barley stalks. Alas, the experience did not last for long, as Jra-wu (Palmo's husband), Palmo (Tara's #8 sister), and Tsega conspired to wrest me from the fields and back to Tong-gu for lunch.