8-July-2006*Nongte

Yesterday, we were visited by Pema, Losang Tsering, and a large round driver (whose name escaped me) from the Jomda Department of Overseas Tibetans. They came to check us out. They wanted to know our names in Chinese and Tibetan, our birthdates, occupations, relationships with people here, and where we had visited. They also videotaped us.

Then Pema, who is local party chairman, launched into a long explanation of the Western Expansion (Xi Bu Kai Fang) and its benefits for Tibet. He explained that the central government is extremely kind to Tibet; also, its policies are extremely beneficial to Tibet. For example, he remarked, in prior times the roads were non-existent or extremely poor, but now the government is investing large sums of money into road building, which has great benefits for Tibetans.

He informed us that Mengkhang, Gonjo, and Jomdahave been designated as protected natural resource areas: hunting is prohibited, tree-cutting is restricted to only the amounts "required for locals to use in home heating and cooking." Furthermore, natural areas are to be kept natural while cultivated fields are to be kept in cultivation.

Pema told us that in the 70s and 80s there had been a central policy of trying to utilize every inch of space in China. The populace was instructed to build terraces where the land could be cultivated and to harvest forest resources in other areas. The result, in Tibet, had been massive erosion. Lacking forest and natural ground cover, runoff volumes had been amplified and sediment loads increased greatly. These changes resulted in devastating deadly floods in the flatland areas of central China. But, these policies have been reversed and now environmental protection is the new watchword.

This came as good news to me, and I told them I was very happy to hear this and that, were my countrymen to learn of it, they would be similarly pleased. I hope what he told me is true.

Pema also described other benefits of the central government's Western Expansion policy. He told us that in the past, Jomda was the first area of Tibet to be liberated by the PLA. They had come through this valley and up through Jomda. Similarly, this area is the first part of Tibet to reap the direct benefits of Western Expansion. He explained that goods from the interior, such as modern clothing, are now widely available in Tibet.

And he talked of the benefits of electrification. Now, many homes can use modern electrical appliances. And now, many homes have TVs. He explained that before, people could only sing, dance, or listen to Lamas for entertainment, but now they can watch TV or go to the towns for entertainment. "Xian zai, renao de difang doude hen!" (Now, lively places are very numerous.)

Pema also mentioned the fact that Tibetans pay no taxes. When work crews come from the interior, they have to pay taxes, but Tibetans do not have to pay any taxes on their incomes and business operations.

We told Pema about the road from Chamdo to Jomda, how torn up things are along the road side, and we described the devastating mining operation we had seen along the way. Pema explained that this was only the first stage of the mining operation; there is a 3-5 year plan, and when finished, they will cover over the mined areas and restore the vegetation. I listened with skepticism, but I do hope what he said is true. At the same time, I wonder what damage is being blithely inflicted in the interim, both to nearby and downstream river ecosystems.

They also told us that their office was there to assist visiting foreigners and overseas Tibetans. They gave us their phone numbers and told us to contact them in the future if we want to visit Jomda.

After this exchange, the threesome abruptly stood up, said their good-byes, and left.

6-July-2006 * Nongte

Today was Guru Rinpoche day. To celebrate the occasion, I went with Tessa, Tsultrim Dorje, Aje, Tamdrin Wangmo, and Oser to do circumabulations around the Nongte stupas. There are 8 of them lined up between two tracks of the Kutse road. The middle stretch, between the first group of stupas and the end pair is filled by a mani wall, stacked high with stones carved in mantras.

We had a grand time circling the set 21 times. We experimented with different ways of walking: skipping, bunny-hopping, cowboy walking, truckin', John Travolta walking, troll shuffling, and football pass plays. While we circled, Tessa had a grand time prancing with some young calves who spent their days in the shadows of the stupas, waiting for their mothers to return from the hills with udders full of milk.

Upon our return to the bridge, we encountered Buru's breadloaf truck filled with suffering. A boy had fallen while picking berries. He had severely broken his femur in two places and smashed up the side of his head and face. He lay in shock, blood and tears on his face, and breathing with difficulty. His mother was wailing with uncontrolled grief, and several of the gathered onlookers also burst into disconsolate crying.

It was a sad scene indeed, but not as bad as it seemed. We heard the next day that although he was still in considerable pain, his head injury was not serious, and a large cut had been closed with 5 stitches. They're fortunate here in the valley to have a working clinic. In past years, such care was simply not available.

5-July-2006 * Nongte

Today we went to Muteg Tsong for pinic. Muteg Tsong is the name of the household of Tara's sister, Tsega, and her husband Egg. They had set up a tent and arranged a spread of food and drinks for us: dried meat, kap-se, sunflower seeds, peaches, pears, bottled mandarin oranges, crackers, beer, chang, Red Bull, strawberry vinegar soda, and a rare treat: distilled alfalfa spirits, which is reputed to have healing properties.

Tsega and Egg's home is in fairly sad shape, compared to seven years ago. They're living out of a two-room shed built on top of a cattle barn. One room is the kitchen/family room. The other seems to store food and what little remains of their worldly belongings. Their eldest son, Yedo (not photographed), went to India as a bright young monk and became mysteriously crazy there. After returning, he set his parent's home on fire and they lost nearly everything the owned. That was 4 years ago, and their rebuilding project is still incomplete. To me the whole family appears to show the signs of strain. They look worn and haggard, all except Tamdrin Wangmo, who seems quite happy, healthy, and content. Tsega and Egg are kind, warm, and loving people, but their life has been difficult.


Tessa enjoyed her visit to Muteg Tsong on account of a 5-day old calf she was able to play with.

4-July-2006 * Nongte

We've been in Tong-gu (Tara's mom's home) for 3 days now, and are starting to settle in to the rhythm of life here. Life has changed in several ways since our last visit 7 years ago. For one, the Tong-gu house is new and it's much larger and more comfortable than before. It has a huge friendly kitchen/living room, with space for at least 30 people. Two large jin-goms line the southeast and southwest walls, while cheerful cabinets line the northeast and northwest walls. The walls and cabinets are red, orange, blue, purple, yellow, turquoise, silver, pink, and white. They are decorated with flowers, clouds, and geometric designs, while the edges are intricately carved in flowers and cut-out patterns.

The focal point for this room is a broad black iron stove, large enough to warm 12 large pots. It has a long central firebox, in which meter-long branches can be burnt. The stovepipe has eliminated the pall of smoke that used to fill the old kitchen. Also, since the windows are far from the outhouse (on the NE corner of the house) flies are infrequent visitors to the kitchen. Small stools surrounding the stove support the constant flow of family, relatives, and friends who hang out in this happy place.

Behind the stove are three large water canisters, replenished by hand from the stream behind the house. Above these is a string of dippers, all different sizes. A large pot occupying a central position on the stove is the source of warm water. The next cabinet behind the stove holds the various spices and cooking ingredients. The other cabinets store a variety of pots, pans, and miscellaneous items. One prominent cabinet holds the TV, which, along with the electric light bulbs in various rooms of the house, is powered by a micro-hydro generator behind the home. For 2-8 weeks in winter, snow and ice shut off the electricity, but in the warm season, they have enough to power their lights or their TV and satellite receiver. Amazingly, they can now watch satellite broadcasts from China and beyond in this rural hinterland. Maybe tonight, we'll conjure a remake of "The Cup," as we attempt to watch a semifinal match in the World Cup Tournament. The difference is that here, it seems nobody has even heard of the World Cup!

At this time of year, Khams is vibrantly green, and Kutse Valley is no exception. The fields in the valley floor are bright with growth, flashing forth in the various shades of growing barley, wheat, alfalfa, potatoes, turnips, and hay. The terraced fields of Nongte, swaying gracefully in the wind, are a truly lovely sight.

Now is the time to weed the barley fields. This is women's work, and everywhere, women are to be seen swimming through the swaying barley, crouching as they search for stray grass, oats, and other weeds growing midst their staple crops. They gather the grass and weeds into bundles and carry them, like walking grass heaps, to dry near the barns where hay is stored for winter fodder.

I find it amazing and wonderful that they hand-weed their fields. No herbicides, and nothing goes to waste. The weeds feed the animals. I had the opportunity to help Tsega (Tara's #4 sister) for a short while, thrilling in the peaceful sounds of the Tsang Chu's rushing water and the wind rustled barley stalks. Alas, the experience did not last for long, as Jra-wu (Palmo's husband), Palmo (Tara's #8 sister), and Tsega conspired to wrest me from the fields and back to Tong-gu for lunch.