28 July 2006 * Thinking back to Dzongsar

After our visit to the monastic college, we motored around and up to the monastery on the hilltop overlooking Mesho Township. We noticed Tibetans, dressed to the nads, making their way toward the monastery from every direction. Something was happening.

As we approached the main assembly hall we discovered a crowd of people milling about the doorway. Looking to the left, opposite the entry, I marveled at three huge stuffed animals, two yaks and a bear, hanging from the rafters of the adjacent building. The yaks dangled long felt tongues while the bear bared his long, sharp, white teeth and claws.

We entered the assembly hall and slipped through the crowd of sharply dressed and cheerfully energized lay practitioners. Within, a large contingent of monks was in the midst of some sort of practice that included numerous hand mudras, chanting, and music. Lay people surrounded the monks and lamas on all sides, filtering in and gradually filling all of the free space. We circumambulated the ordained monks and found seats. We then learned that this was to be the 4th or 5th in a weeklong series of empowerments that were being given this summer at Dzongsar Monastery.

I was happy as a clam, sitting there, meditating and enjoying the buzz of the crowd and the vibrating cacophony of the ceremony. But Buru was not content. He learned that Dr. Lodrö Phuntsok was down at the Tibet Medical Institute and suggested we go down to see him and return later for the empowerment. I knew then, that we would miss it as a burning sadness filled my heart. Although meeting Dr. Phuntsok was of paramount importance, I could not understand why Buru was in such a hurry. We could meet the Dr. later in the evening, I thought. But I swallowed my agenda and decided this empowerment was not in the cards; I didn't have enough merit to find admittance.

While adherents from all over the valley were streaming for Dzongsar, we turned our backs and headed the opposite direction. When we reached the medical institute Dr. Phuntsok was in conference with several men from the local Public Security Bureau and we had to wait and wait and wait to see the Dr. When their meeting finally ended, I glanced at my watch and noted that it was almost exactly the time the empowerment was to begin.

However, my frustrations evaporated immediately upon seeing Dr. Lodrö Phuntsok. Here was a genuinely great man and we were greatly privileged to spend time with him. He emerged from his meeting room and stood on the veranda, a tall, round man with a beaming countenance. He wore a red half robe, a white silk shirt, and brass-rimmed spectacles. His salt-and-pepper hair was cut short, monk style, and he wore a sparse moustache and elegant wispy beard. His face broke into a broad smile, while his eyes twinkled.

We accompanied the doctor upstairs to the institute's sitting room for tea, snacks, and conversation. The institute currently trains around 12 young students in Tibetan medicine under the guidance of 2 teachers and 7 skilled doctors, who also oversee the medical care for the local population, as well as medicine production in the institute's pharmacy. The institute is also training a group of students in computer skills, under the guidance of a computer-savvy Taiwanese monk who speaks fluent English and Tibetan. This monk seemed quite happy and content at Dzongsar, having lived there for 5 years thus far.

The institute complex includes a guest & residence hall, a kitchen and dining hall warmed by friendly wood stoves, the women's residence quarters, which also houses the 4-machine computer lab on the first floor, and the large medicine production building. They are also preparing to construct a much larger residence hall, which will enable them to expand enrollment to 50 or 60 students.

Our reason for seeking Dr. Phuntsok was to assess the suitability of this Tibetan medical school for Palmo and Jra-wu's youngest daughter, A-je. As it turns out, it appears to be a wonderful fit. It's small, friendly, cheerful, and genuine. The training is excellent and the occupation noble. Students, if they have some basic literacy skills, can enter the school at any age and at any time of year. Since the medical institute belongs to Dzongsar Monastery, it follows the monastic model: there are no tuition fees, but students are asked to bring food if possible. Of course, it helps to have sponsors, and we hope to serve that role, should A-je become a student there.

We were filled with admiration for Dr. Phuntsok and his work; Tara and I both made the wish that we might return someday, before too long, and help out in some way, perhaps by organizing a summer Tibetan medicine retreat for Westerners.

After our meeting, Dr. Phuntsok invited us to supper. We motored into town and crammed into a miniature restaurant dining room, big enough for 10 people to squeeze around a single large circular table. The food rolled in….dish after delicious dish. Dr. Phuntsok's bright youngest daughter and handsome #5 son joined us. It was an excellent meal, I think the best of all the many meals we've enjoyed on this journey.

Sated and happy, we made our way, once again, up the hill to Dzongsar Monastery. We followed Dr. Phuntsok, who invited us into his home in the monastery complex. He offered us tea and medicine gifts, then sent us off with his son-in-law for a tour of some of the monastery's most sacred shrines.

We visited a still, hushed hall inhabited by an elderly shirtless monk. He let us into a peaceful inner chamber, which contained reliquaries of several great past masters, including Dzongsar Khyentse Wangpo. As I offered my prostrations, I was overwhelmed with a sense of reverence toward the past great master.

Next, we were led to a rooftop courtyard in which several elderly lay practitioners were calmly abiding, clicking mala beads, and whispering constant mantras. A wizened lama emerged from an upper residence and ushered us into the former residence quarters of the great master Jamyang Khyentse Chöki Lodrö. We offered our prostrations at his reliquary as I stood relishing the golden silence of that space.

Then we returned to the medical institute, where we spent the night in clean and comfortable quarters. Stars blazed as so many brilliant jewels across the night sky and a chorus of dog song echoed up and down the peaceful valley.